Magic Earth (while not FOSS, it’s privacy oriented though) can do this.
There’s also Transportr, but AFAIK it’s been unmaintained for quite a while now, so it may not work / stop working soon.
Magic Earth (while not FOSS, it’s privacy oriented though) can do this.
There’s also Transportr, but AFAIK it’s been unmaintained for quite a while now, so it may not work / stop working soon.
My personal gripe with mobile Firefox is searching by using the address bar.
I have had countless times where I put in my search prompt, followed by pressing the little X all the way on the right and thus clearing the address bar. My brain just really expects an enter button to be there.
I think my current record is entering a search term and then clearing it literally directly 3 times in a row, getting more and more confused each time.
Adding to what others here have already said, I’d definitely download Signal and see if you can get any people to move from WhatsApp/Telegram/whatever to Signal.
I don’t know much about iOS apps, but you could look into more privacy focused YouTube clients, and possibly 2FA clients too (although that’s a bit of a controversial topic on iOS AFAIK).
I saw you mention in another comment that you use Amazon Alexa for smart home appliances. Depending on interest in selfhosting / time / motivation to move away from Amazon, you could look into using Home Assistant instead. It even has a Lemmy community: [email protected].
Yep my mistake, I confused ShadowSocks with Cloak.
No clue how that guy is zooming with one finger, but zooming while recording a video on my Pixel 6 works just fine when pinching with 2 fingers.
I’ve never used a Pro Pixel (so can’t comment on telephoto), but I never noticed it if there is one. From just clicking around between ultrawide and 1x on my Pixel 6, it seems fine and if I had to guess I’d say it roughly takes 0.5s to switch.
Indeed, they all use UFS 3.1 (so does the 128 GB Galaxy S23 though). I have never looked at storage type and my Pixel 6 doesn’t feel slow in any way.
I have no idea what you mean with the camera, it is one of the best Android cameras out there. This is also true when running Graphene OS, as long as you download the ‘Pixel Camera’ app from either the Google Play store or APK sites (must download as an APK bundle then!).
AFAIK you nailed the differences between NewPipe and NewPipeX.
As for FairEmail, I’ve used it for well over a year without paying and it’s been great (I plan on buying the pro version soon). It has kind of a pay what you want model, technically you can unlock all features for literally 10 cents.
I’m not that knowledgeable on security for hosting services with external access either, I’m sure there are some great YouTube videos out there.
A Raspberry Pi should be perfectly fine for hosting something like Seafile or Nextcloud though (Nextcloud might be a pain in the butt to host).
DP altmode means being able to output HDMI over your phone’s USB-C port, the Pixels are famous for missing that feature. But I believe from Pixel 8 onwards it was added again, if this is important for you you should do your own research on it though.
I’m afraid your best bet here will be using WhatsApp.
Edit:
FindMy (for Android) might also be usable for that, but honestly if you just want it to work I’d still vouch for WhatsApp.
Signal supports a single momentary position, but not live location.
Here’s what I use:
For password manager and weather I use the same apps as you.
I run a Pixel with GrapheneOS. I actually also came from Samsung, and for me there are quite a few creature comforts missing that I didn’t even think about (eg. Samsung Dex, DP altmode, I really like the One UI Dialer, Miracast, Brightness Slider in notifications, switching recents and back button, headphone jack, SD card slot, …).
As for the Pixel being worth it, I’m ok with it as I was due for an upgrade anyway (Galaxy S10 -> Pixel 6). I’d recommend, if you value your privacy and are fine with losing some Samsung features, to either go all the way and upgrade to a new Pixel when your S23 gets old / dies or buy a cheap used Pixel (Pixel 6 and 7 currently has pretty decent value) to just test it out.
i use miracast where I can (my TV and Samsung phone support it natively), as it pretty much just works and is a decent protocol. Sadly every phone manufacturer that isn’t Samsung seems to have abandoned it right now, but it is still widely supported in TVs. On Linux, there is the app gnome-network-displays (yes it also works on KDE) to cast your screen over miracast.
Miracast is an actual local streaming protocol (closely related to WiFi Direct). For content streaming the only FOSS standard I am aware of is FCast, but sofar it only is implemented in the GrayJay Android app.
Edit: There is also Deskreen for casting a PC screen.
For casting mobile to PC there is also scrcpy.
This isn’t really casting, but I often find that an HDMI cable (often paired with a USB-C to HDMI dongle) is the simplest and most reliable way to display a phone screen on another monitor (as long as the phone supports DP altmode).
What worked for me at my old school was using a ShadowSocks proxy. Basically what this does, is it takes all your traffic and just makes it look like random https traffic (AFAIK). ShadowSocks is just a proxy. The description fits the Cloak module, mentioned below.
I believe multiple VPNs support this, for me with PIA VPN it’s in the settings under the name “Multi-Hop” (PIA only supports this on the Desktop App, not on mobile).
This technique is pretty much impossible to block, unless you ban every single VPN ShadowSocks Proxy IP. If that is the case for you (chances are practically 0), you could also selfhost ShadowSocks in combination with the Cloak module, however this method is a lot more complicated.
What’s the issue with PIA? I’ve used it for quite a while and am quite happy with it.
The choice that surprised me was them recommending 1Password ($40/year) over Bitwarden ($10/year, solid free plan).
The user reported events don’t directly affect routing AFAIK.
I share your experience though, no problems for me yet. Their FAQ heavily mentions that you should contact them in case any of the data is wrong.
Welp I will once again try for Hogwarts Legacy.
As for a meme, this isn’t mine and it’s kinda old but it really managed to stick in my head:
Thank You very much for this giveaway and your work moderating this community!
From reading the Magic Earth FAQ, I believe the user data actually isn’t used for traffic at all (at least the manually reported events certainly aren’t).
Edit: never mind I missed a later part in the FAQ:
Do you share data with third parties?
We send position data to our traffic provider to generate real-time traffic information. The data is anonymized on the phone, using a changing key (so it’s not linked to you), and it is deleted after 5 minutes.
Source, Settings and Quick Settings are buttons I find myself using quite often. Also the numbers do come in handy every now and again, as someone who still occasionally watches live TV.
Now the Samsung remote does have an “Extra” button, but last time I tried using that on a friends TV it told me “this functionality is unavailable”. After 3 minutes of searching, I finally gave up on setting the TV to Game Mode and instead just lived with the input lag.
The fact you have to watch out for a physical volume knob nowadays is wild. Imo the shitty implementation winner is by far Renault with the ZE50 EV. Its radio has a permanent volume touch button, which opens a new view with touch buttons for volume up and down.
Whichever Renault engineer or executive thought that this was a good idea in any way, shape or form deserves many punches to the face. Apparently later models now have permanent touch buttons for volume up and down, which I guess is at least slightly better (although still horribly inferior to a knob).
It’s worth noting that there are steering wheel volume buttons for the driver, but it’s still horrible and sucks for passengers.
You can absolutely re-encode h265 video, but you can’t do it losslessly. In the end, it’s always a balance between quality and filesize.
I decided for myself, that 1080p30 crf28 h265 is good enough for home video, which lead to a 50% to 80% storage space reduction on videos from my phone.
If you don’t obsess over quality, I would highly recommend just messing around with ffmpeg a little bit and decide how much quality you’re willing to lose in order to save disk space. When you’re happy with your settings, you can either use ffmpeg itself or some fancy batch program like Tdarr to transcode all (or parts of) your video library.
My goto command is:
for file in *.mp4; do ffmpeg -i "$file" -movflags use_metadata_tags -map_metadata 0 -vcodec libx265 -crf 28 -vf scale=1920:-1 -r 30 "${file%.*}_transcoded.mp4"; done